Take a stitch Tuesday 126 and 127

This week I have 2 stitches to share The first is Alternating Up and Down Buttonhole and the second is the beaded version.

Alternating Up and Down Buttonhole is a variation of up and down buttonhole buttonhole stitch which was week 28 of the TAST challenge. It is  easily worked on all types of fabrics and as you can see the beaded version is attractive too.

How to work Alternating Up and Down Buttonhole Stitch

Work this stitch from left to right and be familiar with the regular form of up and down buttonhole stitch.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole 2Starting as you would with buttonhole stitch and with your needle pointing downwards wrap the thread under the needle and pull the needle through.
Alternating Up and down buttonhole 3For the second part of the stitch, insert the needle and take a bite of the fabric so that the tip of the needle is pointing upwards as illustrated.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole 4Wrap the working thread under the needle and pull the needle through the foundation fabric. As you pull the needle through pull the needle towards you instead of away from you. As you do this hold down the loop that forms with the left thumb to prevent it slipping. This loop forms the bar at the base of both stitches. For regular up and down button hole you would work along the line at this point.

Note I have noticed online that some instructions create a loop then lace the working thread through the stitch. This is wrong the loop is created as you stitch and once you have the rhythm of the stitch it is easy and quick to do.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole 5For Alternating Up and down buttonhole you work the next pair of stitches pointing in the other direction.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole 6Once again make a regular buttonhole stitch but this time point your needle upwards wrap the thread under the needle and pull the needle through.
For the second part of the stitch, insert the needle and take a bite of the fabric so that the tip of the needle is pointing downwards as illustrated.

As you pull the needle through pull he needle away form you and hold down the loop that forms with the left thumb to prevent it slipping.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole 7
This forms the second pair of stitches. Continue along the line with alternating the direction of each pair of stitches as illustrated.

How to work beaded Alternating Up and Down Buttonhole Stitch

Beaded Alternating Up and down buttonhole is another variation. With this stitch the beading is done during the stitching process not added afterward. The trick is use a size 26 tapestry needle. Since the eye of a tapestry needle is long you can thread perle #8 and Perle #5 through the long eye. However the needle itself is thin which means you can add a bead to your working thread as you stitch.

Starting as you would with alternating buttonhole work the first pair of stitches as illustrated.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole beaded  1

Thread a bead on your working thread then work the next pair of stitches pointing downwards.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole beaded  2

Continue along the line adding beads between each pair of stitches as illustrated.

Alternating Up and down buttonhole beaded  3

How to join TAST
Stitch a sample of this stitch or ANY of the stitches listed on the TAST FAQ page.

Once you have worked a sample,  photograph it and put it online at your blog, flickr etc then swing back to the Last TAST post (you will find it under the category each week)  and leave a comment.

You can leave a comment about any TAST stitch

Don’t want to miss our on any of the TAST stitches?
Subscribe to Pin Tangle by Email and have it delivered to your In Box. Follow the link to sign up. You do NOT have to be stitching along to take advantage of this service.
Or follow me on Facebook and just click that like button and get updates there.


Take a Stitch Tuesday # 125 Beaded Herringbone

Beaded herringbone is a variety of herringbone which makes a very attractive edge or border stitch and is an ideal to use in crazy quilting to decorate a seam.

With this stitch the beading is done during the stitching process not added afterward. The trick is use a size 26 tapestry needle. Since the eye of a tapestry needle is long you can thread perle #8 and Perle #5 through the long eye. However the needle itself is thin which means you can add a bead to your working thread as you stitch.

The samples below are worked in # 5 cotton perle thread.
Beaded Herringbone stitch step 1Start Beaded Herringbone as you would regular herringbone stitch and work from left to right between two lines. Bring the needle out on the bottom left-hand side of the line to be worked.

Beaded Herringbone stitch step 2Make a small stitch on the top line which points to the left, pull the thread through.

 

Add 4 0r 5 seed beads to your thread.

Beaded Herringbone stitch step 3

Insert the thread on the lower line a little to the right and make a small stitch which points to the left and pull the thread through.

Beaded Herringbone stitch step 4

Work a second crossbar by moving to the top of the line to make a small stitch which points to the left and pulling the thread through. Continue in the manner along the line

Beaded Herringbone stitch step 5

How to join TAST
Stitch a sample of this stitch or ANY of the stitches listed on the TAST FAQ page.

Once you have worked a sample,  photograph it and put it online at your blog, flickr etc then swing back to the Last TAST post (you will find it under the category each week)  and leave a comment.

You can leave a comment about any TAST stitch

Don’t want to miss our on any of the TAST stitches?
Subscribe to Pin Tangle by Email and have it delivered to your In Box. Follow the link to sign up. You do NOT have to be stitching along to take advantage of this service.
Or follow me on Facebook and just click that like button and get updates there.


Take a Stitch Tuesday # 124 Closed Herringbone

Closed herringbone is a variety of herringbone where the stitch is worked so closely together that it forms a line of crossed stitches. On the back of the fabric it will show a two lines of back stitches so it is known as Double Backstitch. This stitch is often worked on sheer or semi sheer fabric to create a style of very subtle and interesting type of embroidery called shadow work.

Normally with forms of herringbone you would work the crosses on the front of the embroidery as a surface stitch but in shadow work you work the stitch on the back and it shows through the fabric. This means the shadow of the work is seen hence the name. When worked in shadow work Closed Herringbone is known as Shadow stitch.

But as I say you can also use closed herringbone as surface stitch too. It is very useful to define a good strong line or in a border or as part of an edging.

Closed Herringbone Stitch step 1
This stitch is worked from left to right between two lines. Commence by bringing the needle out on the bottom left-hand side of the line to be worked.

Take the needle up and make a small stitch on the upper line which points to the left, pull the thread through.

Insert the needle on the lower line but have the needle tip emerge  in line with the edge of the edge of the upper stitch (as illustrated) and make a small stitch which points to the left.

Closed Herringbone Stitch step 2Insert the needle on the upper line a little to the right and make a small stitch which points to the left. Have the needle emerge next to the previous stitch. Continue in the manner along the line working each herringbone stitch closely so that is sits right next to the previous stitch.

Closed Herringbone Stitch

How to join TAST
Stitch a sample of this stitch or ANY of the stitches listed on the TAST FAQ page.

Once you have worked a sample,  photograph it and put it online at your blog, flickr etc then swing back to the Last TAST post (you will find it under the category each week)  and leave a comment.

Don’t want to miss our on any of the TAST stitches?
Subscribe to Pin Tangle by Email and have it delivered to your In Box. Follow the link to sign up. You do NOT have to be stitching along to take advantage of this service.
Or follow me on Facebook and just click that like button and get updates there.


Take a Stitch Tuesday 122 Chained bar 123 Woven Chained bar

I have two stitches for you this week and both of them are composite stitches. Chained bar forms a solid line that is ideal for borders and Woven chain bar is an interesting variation. You can use both stitches to couch down ribbons, tape or some flat braids.
 How to work Chained bar
Create the foundation of this stitch by first laying down some long straight stitches. Between two to six straight stitches in DMC pearl 3 thread works well, but if you want to go for a different primitive look you can use string like yarns or even fine knitting wool. Highly textured threads can be used as the bar. If they are very hairy the chain will create interesting indentations on the line.

Chained bar 1You are going to work a zig zag chain stitch across the bar. You might like to refresh your memory on how to work zig zag chain.

This is a stitch where contrasting threads work well. For instance a metallic thread over a bar of silk is stunning.

Chained bar 2Work from left to right. Bring the needle from the back of the fabric and hold the thread with the left thumb. Insert the needle back into where it first came out. Take the needle through the fabric bringing the point of the needle out on a diagonal angle, below the straight stitches. With the thread wrapped under the needle point pull the needle through the fabric.

Chained bar step 3In the second stitch turn the angle of the chain stitch to take the chain over the bar. Continue along the bar until the straight stitches are couched down by the zig zag chain stitches.

If your stitches do not lie flat as you enter the fabric with each loop pierce the end of the previous loop.

How to work Woven Chained bar

Woven chained bar starts with a foundation of Chained bar stitch and you weave the chain stitches as you would Woven Zigzag chain stitch which was challenge stitch # 75. If you need to remember how Woven Zigzag Chain is worked here is a reminder.

Woven chain bar 1Work a foundation of Chained bar stitch. For the sample I have worked a sample over 5 straight stitches of a hand dyed chainette thread. The second part of the sample is worked in cotton perle #5.

To weave the chain stitches

Bring your needle out at the base of the first chain stitch. Pass it under the bottom bar of the chain stitch and have your needle come up in the middle of the loop.
Pull your needle through.

Woven chain bar  2Turn your needle pass the needle under the bar of the chain stitch and have your needle come up in the middle of the loop. Pull your thread through. Continue weaving from side to side and pack the stitches as you go. As you weave make sure your needle always points towards the centre of the chain stitch.

Work this way until you reach the end of the line.
If you work your woven stitches slightly tighter at the start and end of each chain the shape will become leaf like.

Woven chain bar 3During the weaving stage you are not taking the needle through the fabric but using the chain stitch as a foundation on which to weave.

How to join TAST
Stitch a sample of this stitch or ANY of the stitches listed on the TAST FAQ page.

Once you have worked a sample,  photograph it and put it online at your blog, flickr etc then swing back to the Last TAST post (you will find it under the category each week)  and leave a comment.

You can leave a comment about any TAST stitch

Don’t want to miss our on any of the TAST stitches?
Subscribe to Pin Tangle by Email and have it delivered to your In Box. Follow the link to sign up. You do NOT have to be stitching along to take advantage of this service.
Or follow me on Facebook and just click that like button and get updates there.