Buttonholed Cable Chain and Alternating Buttonholed Cable Chain

Buttonholed Cable Chain is of course a variety of Cable chain stitch and you need to be able to work a foundation of Cable Chain. If you need a refresher my tutorial for Cable Chain stitch is here 

Buttonholed cable chain sample

Cable chain differs slightly from regular chain stitch as Cable chain has an extra bar worked between each chain stitch.  When you buttonhole this stitch it becomes something quite different.

When you first learn this stitch use a thread with a firm twist. When mastered experiment with other threads. The example is worked in Perle #5 thread. I worked each journey in different colours so readers could see what was happening.

Buttonholed cable chain 1Work a row of Cable Chain stitch which act as a foundation.

For the second part of the stitch work from left to right and bring the needle up through the fabric on the bottom the left hand side.

Slip your needle under the thread of the first chain stitch as illustrated. Loop the thread under the needle point and pull the needle through to make the first buttonhole stitch

Buttonholed cable chain 2Work a buttonhole stitch on the side of the chain stitch being careful not pass the needle through the foundation fabric. Add more buttonhole stitches along the bar until they sit snug.

As you work slide the stitches long the bar so that the finished stitches are spaced closely together.

Buttonholed cable chain 3When you reach the end of the foundation stitch move to the next chain skipping the bar between. The bar acts to divide each loop neatly but does not need to be buttonholed.

Buttonholed cable chain 4When you reach the end of the row turn your work and buttonhole the other side of the cable chain foundation.

Buttonholed cable chain 5How to work Alternating Buttonholed Cable Chain Stitch

Alternating Buttonholed Cable chain stitch is a variety of Buttonholed Cable Chain you start with a foundation row of Cable Chain stitch.

Alternating Buttonholed cable chain 1

On the second journey work buttonhole stitches on the side of the chain stitch being careful not pass the needle through the foundation fabric. As you add more buttonhole stitches slide the stitches long the bar so that the finished stitches are spaced closely together.

When you reach the end of the foundation chain stitch slide your needle under the bar between the chain stitches and work buttonhole stitches on the other side of the next chain stitch. Work like this along line, buttonholing first one side of the chain stitch then on the next foundation stitch work the other side.

Alternating Buttonholed cable chain 2It is a fun stitch to work and I can see lots of applications for it.

Alternating Buttonholed cable chain 3

How to hand embroider Reversed Buttonhole Bar

Reversed Buttonhole Bar creates a textured braid like stitch that is great to use as a textured border or edging. You can use it as a linear stitch too making it a very versatile stitch to add to the stitches you use. This stitch is also known as Buttonhole with extra line.

Reversed Buttonhole Bar  is worked on a foundation row of buttonhole stitch.

How to work Reversed Buttonhole Bar

Reversed Buttonhole Bar
Commence this stitch by creating a foundation row of buttonhole stitches spaced evenly apart. In the sample I have illustrated these with the aqua thread.

Turn your work so that the base of the buttonhole is at the top.
Work from right to left. Bring your needle out on the right of the first buttonhole ladder.
Tuck the needle under the bar, then wrap the thread under the needle like you would in buttonhole.

Reversed Buttonhole Bar 2
Pull the needle through so that the thread forms a loop around the bar

Reversed Buttonhole Bar 3
Note : You are not stitching through the fabric. You are just looping the thread around the bar.
I have changed the colour of my threads so that you can see clearly how the stitch is worked.

Reversed Buttonhole Bar 4
Move to the next bar and create the second loop the same way as you did the first. Continue along the band until you have reached the end.

Reversed Buttonhole Bar 5

Variations on Reversed Buttonhole Bar
All the written references to this stitch I have leave the stitch at that. However,  you can increase the number of lines to produce a thick braid like stitch.

This stitch is also very effective worked in a circle. Two varieties are illustrated here. The first has the foundation buttonhole arms pointing outwards and the second points inwards.
Since the foundation of this stitch is buttonhole it will follow a curve well and you can vary the direction and height of the buttonhole arms to create even more interesting effects. This is where all those experiments with buttonhole come in handy.
This stitch looks particularly good in a thread that has a firm twist like perle 5 but the top looping stitches can be done in fine ribbons and textured threads. You can also add beads too!

I hope you enjoy experimenting with Reversed Buttonhole Bar stitch as once you get the rhythm of working you can be very creative with it.


How to hand embroider Raised Cup Stitch

Raised cup stitch is a fun and quick to work. As the name implies it produces a little cup that is raised from the surface of the fabric. As with many of these 3D stitches if you work this stitch using a thread with a firm twist such as perle cotton, it not only looks better, you can see what you are doing!

After mastering this stitch if you try it in thicker threads such as wool, chenille or even silk ribbon you will be surprised and I am sure delighted by the results.

If you add a bead to the middle of the cup this stitch makes great flower like shapes that can be arranged in sprays or to resemble hollyhocks.

How to work Raised Cup stitch

Raised cup stitch 1First work a foundation of three straight stitches arranged in a triangle.

From this point on you will not be stitching through the fabric so use a blunt needle to avoid splitting the foundation threads by accident. If you prefer you can change your needle at this point in the process. Using a tapestry needle also allows for experimentation with the threads you use such as chenille or novelty threads.

Raised cup stitch 2Pass the needle under the first bar.

Raised cup stitch 3Working in an anti clockwise direction first wrap your thread over the needle then wrap your thread under the needle as illustrated. (As you are working remember over, under, over, under, and so on)

Raised cup stitch 4Pull your needle through gently to form a loop which as you pull further becomes a knot on the foundation bar. The knots create the stitch.

Raised cup stitch 5Repeat this process working around the triangle

Raised cup stitch 6When you have completed one ring move to the second round by simply continuing to stitch between the spaces of the first row of stitches.

Raised cup stitch 7If you want this stitch to splay outward add a few more stitches to the ring by working two stitches into one space every 4-5 stitches. Different effects can be created by working higher or splaying out the cup.

Raised cup stitch 8When the required height is achieved weave the thread back down the side of the cup, take it to the back of the fabric and tie off.

As I said this stitch is really interesting if you try it in textured thread, chenille, silk ribbon or wool. Adding beads to the middle often makes this stitch sing.

The sample below contains raised cup stitch that has been worked in a mauve thread which is a mix of mohair and wool. These little mauve flowers have been tucked in a spray of flowers on a crazy quilt block.

Raised cup stitch on crazy quilting
Crazy quilt template set 2 Have you seen my Stitchers Templates?

As someone who loves crazy quilting and embroidery I designed these templates with other stitchers in mind. With my templates you can create hundreds of different patterns to apply to your stitching and crazy quilting projects. They are easy to use, totally clear so you can position them easily and they are compact in your sewing box.

Templates set 1 you will find here 
Templates set 2 you will find here 
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