How to hand embroider Woven Chained Bar stitch

Woven chained bar ideal for borders or you can use it to couch down ribbons, tape or some flat braids. You need first to work a row of regular Chained bar stitch and you weave the chain stitches as you would Woven Zigzag chain stitch. If you need to remember how Woven Zigzag Chain is worked follow the link to a tutorial.

Woven chain bar 1Work a foundation of Chained bar stitch. For the sample I have worked a sample over 5 straight stitches of a hand dyed chainette thread.

To weave the chain stitches

The second part of the sample is worked in cotton perle #5. Bring your needle out at the base of the first chain stitch. Pass it under the bottom bar of the chain stitch and have your needle come up in the middle of the loop. Pull your needle through.

Woven chain bar 2Turn your needle pass the needle under the bar of the chain stitch and have your needle come up in the middle of the loop. Pull your thread through. Continue weaving from side to side and pack the stitches as you go. As you weave make sure your needle always points towards the centre of the chain stitch.

Work this way until you reach the end of the line.
If you work your woven stitches slightly tighter at the start and end of each chain the shape will become leaf like.

Woven chain bar 3During the weaving stage you are not taking the needle through the fabric but using the chain stitch as a foundation on which to weave.

I hope you enjoy the stitch!

How to hand embroider Raised Cup Stitch

Raised cup stitch is a fun and quick to work. As the name implies it produces a little cup that is raised from the surface of the fabric. As with many of these 3D stitches if you work this stitch using a thread with a firm twist such as perle cotton, it not only looks better, you can see what you are doing!

After mastering this stitch if you try it in thicker threads such as wool, chenille or even silk ribbon you will be surprised and I am sure delighted by the results.

If you add a bead to the middle of the cup this stitch makes great flower like shapes that can be arranged in sprays or to resemble hollyhocks.

How to work Raised Cup stitch

Raised cup stitch 1First work a foundation of three straight stitches arranged in a triangle.

From this point on you will not be stitching through the fabric so use a blunt needle to avoid splitting the foundation threads by accident. If you prefer you can change your needle at this point in the process. Using a tapestry needle also allows for experimentation with the threads you use such as chenille or novelty threads.

Raised cup stitch 2Pass the needle under the first bar.

Raised cup stitch 3Working in an anti clockwise direction first wrap your thread over the needle then wrap your thread under the needle as illustrated. (As you are working remember over, under, over, under, and so on)

Raised cup stitch 4Pull your needle through gently to form a loop which as you pull further becomes a knot on the foundation bar. The knots create the stitch.

Raised cup stitch 5Repeat this process working around the triangle

Raised cup stitch 6When you have completed one ring move to the second round by simply continuing to stitch between the spaces of the first row of stitches.

Raised cup stitch 7If you want this stitch to splay outward add a few more stitches to the ring by working two stitches into one space every 4-5 stitches. Different effects can be created by working higher or splaying out the cup.

Raised cup stitch 8When the required height is achieved weave the thread back down the side of the cup, take it to the back of the fabric and tie off.

As I said this stitch is really interesting if you try it in textured thread, chenille, silk ribbon or wool. Adding beads to the middle often makes this stitch sing.

The sample below contains raised cup stitch that has been worked in a mauve thread which is a mix of mohair and wool. These little mauve flowers have been tucked in a spray of flowers on a crazy quilt block.

Raised cup stitch on crazy quilting

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Bullion Buttonhole Stitch

milliners needles

Bullion Buttonhole an interesting variety of buttonhole. This stitch consists of  buttonhole stitch where the upright bars are worked as a bullion stitches. Since it is based on buttonhole you can use it to edge items or as a interesting border. Bullion buttonhole can look very interesting if you thread a thin ribbon or novelty thread under it.

Tip: For all bullion stitches use milliners needles as they are the secret weapon in creating wonderful bullion stitches. People either love or hate bullions, but most of the problems associated with working them is that people use the wrong needle.

I recommend milliners or straw needles because most embroidery needles have an eye that is wider than the shaft of the needle. Milliners or straw needles have an eye and shaft that are the same width which makes sliding the wrapped bullion knot along the needle easy.

If you are not near a needlework store you can buy Milliners Needles online (this is an affiliate link which means if you shop here I get a small commission but that is not why I recommend them!)

How to work Bullion Buttonhole

This is a version of buttonhole that has a bullion as the vertical stitch. It makes sense to be familiar with both basic buttonhole stitch and bullion knot stitch before you embark on this. So if you need a refresher work a few of both stitches on some scrap fabric and attempt this when your hands have a bit of muscle memory.

Samples worked in DMC perle #5 cotton using a #3 Milliners needle on 26 cnt linen.

bullion buttonhole step 1The same as basic buttonhole bullion buttonhole stitch is worked from left to right over two imaginary lines.

Bring the thread out on the lower line. Insert the needle on the upper line making a straight downward motion and then loop the thread under the needle point as you would with regular buttonhole.

Wrap your needle 5 or 6 times. Make sure the wraps side side by side. Don’t wrap too tight as that will make it hard to pull your needle through. On the other hand loose wrap will make for a sloppy knot.

Pull your needle through while loosely holding the wraps between your thumb and forefinger. As you pull your needle through the bullion stitch will point towards the top imaginary line.

Some of the wraps may be a little wobbly. Tickle the bullion’s tummy with the point of your needle. Run it  smoothly up an down the underside of the bullion. Do this a couple of times as this will even out wobbly  wraps.

bullion buttonhole step 2Your thread should emerge from the bottom of the bullion. Move along the row, repeating the same stitches.

bullion buttonhole step 3By altering the lengths of the upright bullion stitches this variety of buttonhole can be very decorative

Like regular buttonhole stitches, rows of the stitch can be built up to create patterns.

bullion buttonhole step 4Bullion buttonhole is a fun stitch to work once you establish a rhythm and if you want to add even more texture it looks good when you add beads.